Chenango Canal at Bouckville
Landmark Tavern Dates to Canal Days
The history of the beautiful and historic Landmark Tavern building begins with the efforts to procure a canal route from Binghamton to Utica. This route would join the coal fields of Northern Pennsylvania with the recently-opened Erie Canal. The farms, hamlets and villages of the Chenango and Oriskany river valleys, through which the proposed canal was to be constructed, had the potential for great prosperity if this new transportation route were built.
The canal would also bisect the Third Great Western Turnpike (today’s Rt. 20), which ran through the hamlet of Johnsville. Johnsville was later renamed Bouckville. Johnsville in the 1820’s and 1830’s was a small cluster of homes and businesses, mainly on the eastern end of the hamlet. The western end of present-day Bouckville (formerly Johnsville) was referred to as a “cedar swamp” in newspaper accounts of the 1820’s. Farms in the area had originally been established on the hillsides to avoid disease-carrying mosquitos. The construction of a canal offered the chance to drain the swamps and create lowland farms that could use the rich alluvial soil of the Bouckville area.
The Cobblestone Distillery
When news of the pending passage of the canal bill became known many people began to plan new business ventures along the canal route. Local farms were producing an abundance of grain and the grain could be sent to market by wagon, but that was a slow and laborious process.
A better way to transport the grain was to process it into whiskey and then send it to market in barrels on the new Chenango Canal. As a result, a fine cobblestone building was erected c.1837 on the west side of the canal and a distillery was begun. The following is a listing of owners of the distillery at Bouckville as compiled by Matthew Urtz, Madison County Historian. 1847 – Burchard & Edgarton — Distillery — Whiskey (We do not know if they were the original builders of the distillery. They are the first recorded in the county files.
The information for 1847 comes from the record books of Miss Gertrude Edgarton. In that book was recorded the sale of 30 barrels of whiskey to be sent on the boat “Utica,” to New York City, by way of the Chenango and Erie Canals.) 1855 – John Woodhull — Distillery — Whiskey (John Woodhull installed a rectifier. In this process, the spirits or liquor goes through repeated distillation.) 1855 – Woodhull & Seawood — Distillery — Whiskey 1859 – William Woodhull & Joseph Forward — Distillery — Whiskey 1865 – William Woodhull & Joseph Forward — Distilling & Malting — Whiskey & Malt Liquor 1867.
The building was purchased from Woodhull & Forward by Horatio S. Brown, John C. Beach and Charles F. Dedrick and converted into a vinegar manufactory. (In 1868, Samuel R. Mott will buy Dedrick’s one-third interest in this firm and will later own the entire operation and convert it into a cider and vinegar firm – the beginnings of the Mott’s product name.)
Cargo Space
Many of the items destined for Bouckville were received at the dock owned by Moses Maynard and kept in his storehouse along the canal. However, it soon became obvious that Bouckville needed a place where local citizens could come and trade the goods which they produced in exchange for necessities and other desired items.
The push for a new store actually came from Maynard’s wife, Polly, who envisioned a many-sided structure to be built across the road from the “White House.” When plans were drawn up for the pie-shaped lot, it was realized that only four sides could be built in the available space. A joint-stock company was formed with Moses Maynard as the head of the company and other area investors represented, including James E. and William Coolidge. James D. Coolidge’s son, James E. Coolidge, was to be the architect and chief carpenter for the Cobblestone Store project.
Realizing the limitations of the pie-shaped lot, Coolidge drew up plans for a building that would be truly unique. The years 1847-1851 were devoted to the planning, gathering of materials and the construction of the building.
Building the Cobblestone Structure
After the set of plans was determined, work on the building began with the digging of the foundation and basement level. This was a period of pick and shovel work and the digging of such a massive hole must have taken a great deal of time. With the foundation/basement hole completed, a base for the exterior walls was needed before layer after layer of cobblestones could be placed.
The base of the foundation and the exterior walls of the basement portion of the building are estimated to be four foot thick. The outside wall of the building had to be perfectly vertical as construction continued, but the inside wall became narrower and narrower until the stone wall at the peak measured 12 to 16 inches wide.
This meant that on each floor of the Cobblestone Store, the interior walls would start out tight against the stone and show a wider and wider opening toward the ceiling. This created a real challenge for the carpenters. At the same time that the stone walls were being raised, the interior was being built by the carpenters.
The completed Cobblestone Store building would have a basement area, three distinct floors and a cupola installed on the roof. Another unique feature of the building is a pair of triangular-shaped windows on the east and west ends of the building. Decorative and distinctive, they have been a source of conversation for many decades.
The complexity and detail of this building is best seen in the construction of the roof. This can still be seen today when viewed from the unfinished third floor. Many leading architects have come and studied the construction techniques used by James E. Coolidge and marvel at both the complexity and the ingenuity of his design. Studying each exposed beam, and the way it was used, one can readily see the supporting function of each.
Connecting Stories
On a board found in the Landmark Tavern building and now on display to the left of the modern tap room: “This window cased by David Douglas Hougham on this 17th day of October 1851. Four carpenters now work on this house. Written by D.D. Hougham. Chartered by Coolidge Brothers & Company, Bouckville. Isaac Forward and his son, Hougham and Henderson – joiners. A great day – not a cloud to be seen. A frosty morning – just the same through the day.” When construction reached the cupola level, Mr. Coolidge used a six-sided design, the entire cupola being about 12 feet wide.
Legend states that each side was dedicated to one of the six wives that he married during his lifetime. His fifth wife was alive during the initial construction of the building but died before the structure reached the height of the cupola. Coolidge married for a sixth time in 1851 (Mary Coburn Smith) and this may have prompted the six-sided design. You can see the entire area around Bouckville from each of the diamond-shaped cupola windows.
The result of four years of labor was a building unlike any other in the U.S. It has been featured in numerous articles and books and is also listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Each side of the front of the building is 24 feet wide, for a total of 96 feet of road frontage.
The frontage faced the Cherry Valley Turnpike, the Chenango Canal and after 1850, the Rome to Hamilton Plank Road, which ran alongside the canal. The stores on the ends of the building were rectangular in shape, while the two stores in the middle were more pie-shaped. It became the first mini-mall of its day with a different type of store eventually occupying each section. Each store entrance can be visibly seen today. The Post Office for Bouckville was housed in the Cobblestone Store for many years and the first telephone exchange for the community was also headquartered there.
Owners of the Stone Store
1847-1851 – The Cobblestone Store was built. April 1, 1851 – James E. and William Coolidge purchased the building from Moses Maynard and his wife. 1861-1875 – William Coolidge. By 1861, William had purchased the interest of his brother, James E., in the Cobblestone Store and directed the store enterprise until his death on May 3, 1875. June 14, 1876-1882 – Lewis E. Coe. The property was sold through the estate of William Coolidge by Joseph W. Forward and Mary J. Coolidge – Executors of the Estate. Mr. Coe paid $795.00 for the property. February 24, 1883 – Lewis E. Coe and Hurd D. Brockett form a partnership. This was the locally famous store – Coe & Brockett.
The partnership continued until the death of Lewis E. Coe in 1897. 1897-1911 – H.D. Brockett and Mrs. Coe following the death of Lewis E. Coe. 1911-1940 – Charles M. Coe – He was the son of Lewis E. Coe. The telephone exchange was located in the Stone Store during this time period. The manager of the store for many years was Allie F. White, followed by Mrs. J.M. Daniels.
At this time there were also apartments to rent on the second floor. June 28, 1940 – Charles M. Coe to Robert Palmiter and Valerae K. Palmiter. Mr. Palmiter lived in the building with his family and also ran an antiques business from the premises. He died in a tragic auto accident in 1968. June 12, 1970 – Valerae K. Palmiter to Andrew B. Hengst, Sr. and Andrew B. Hengst, Jr. The Landmark Tavern was opened on September 25, 1970. April 8, 1977 – Andrew B. Hengst, Sr. and Andrew B. Hengst, Jr. to Andrew B. Hengst, Sr., Andrew B. Hengst, Jr. and Stephen G. Hengst as joint tenants. 1977 to the present – The Hengst family continues to operate the Landmark Tavern. This consistency of ownership is evident in the style in which the business is conducted.
Safe Haven for Runaway Slaves
A story told by Brian Palmiter, which had been related by his father, Robert Palmiter, states that the Cobblestone Store had a way to hide runaway slaves during the Civil War time period. The slaves were supposedly hidden on the Chenango Canal boats by the boat captains.
When the boats docked at Bouckville, the runaways were secreted to the Cobblestone Store and hidden in a cavity just to the right of the fireplace, which is located in the second dining room of the Landmark Tavern. Brian stated that he can remember seeing a panel in that area that could be slid out. Behind the panel was an opening where a person could stand up and be hidden. It has been owned and operated as Ye Olde Landmark Tavern and Restaurant by the Hengst family since September, 1970.
( Information collected by Jim Ford)
Rome Sentinel, July 20, 1940
Bouckville Man Buys Landmark
____
Robert Palmiter Takes Over
Old Cobblestone Store
On Route 20
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Oneida - Robert Palmiter is the new owner of the old cobblestone store at Bouckville, Route 20.
The octagonal building was built by Moses Maynard who came from New England to Bouckville in 1800. He built the building 40 years later and during the Chenango Canal and hop-picking days it was a noted meeting place. Maynard also built what is now known as the "White House Hotel."
After its completion 10 years later, Ira Burham and his son, Linidorf, operated the store, but upon the outbreak of the Civil War, the Burnhams disposed of their business to Deacon William Coolidge, who operated the store until 1875. He also was postmaster.
Lewis E. Coe was his successor and the Coes owned the property for 64 years. H.D. Brockett became his partner later. Mr. Coe died in 1897, and Brockett carried on until 1911. Charles M. Coe, a son of Lewis, bought Brockett's interest and A.F. White became manager. Later he was succeeded by Mrs. J.M. Daniels.
Among other buildings of the community during the Cobblestone Store construction was the cobblestone house now occupied by Glenn Washburn, supervisor, and the red brick house, occupied by Mrs. Elsie Washburn.
View of east wall.
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The 1853 wall map of Madison county shows "Woodhull & Forward, Distillers" on the west side of the Chenango Canal at this point. A news item states it was converted to a vinegar factory in 1867.
Photo courtesy of Diane VanSlyke, Town of Madison Historian
Waterville Times
Thursday, July 25, 1940
Cobblestone Store is Being Restored
____
Octagonal Stone Store Located At
Bouckville is of Historical Interest -
Will Be Used for Antique Shop
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The recent sale of the “Old Cobblestone Store” at Bouckville Corners is of interest throughout Central New York, not only because of its unique appearance but because of its historical interest. An item on the history of the Cobblestone Stone appeared in the Oneida Democratic-Union last week. The article follows:
“Moses Maynard and family came from the east early in 1800, and settled in the vicinity of Bouckville. About 1840 he built the present hotel known as ‘White House.’ About 1850, he built the cobblestone store. Mr. Maynard was the chief instigator. Mrs. Maynard, commonly called ‘Aunt Polly’ made the remark that if it could be built eight sided, they would help finance the building.
“Ira Burham and son, Linidorf operated the store until the opening of the Civil War in 1861. Deacon William Coolidge succeeded the Messrs. Burnhams and continued until his death in 1875. He was also postmaster and the post office was in the store.
Purchased in 1875
“Lewis E. Coe purchased the building in 1876 and he operated it for several years as well as being postmaster. Later he took into partnership, H.D. Brockett. The firm was then known as Coe & Brockett. After Mr. Coe’s death in 1897, Mr. Brockett carried on alone until 1911. Then Charles M. Coe, son of Lewis T. Coe, purchased the property.
“A.F. White was manager for a number of years. Mr. White was succeeded by Mrs. J.M. Daniels who ably filled the position. Mr. Brockett continued as postmaster, moving the post office into what is known now as the Pierce Auto Parts.
“The store was owned by the Coe family for 64 years. During that time it as operated as a general store. The stock tried, consisting of nearly everything from peanuts, needles and silk to mowing machines. It was also a very popular place when the old canal boars operated on the Chenango Canal.
“In hop times, it was the scene of great activity, the farmers bills sometimes amounting to hundreds of dollars. It also housed the post office for many years and was also the first local telephone exchange. At one time, from its cupola, weather signals were displayed for the benefit of the farmers.
Octagonal in Shape
“The building is octagonal, unique in design, containing a dark room. The original double doors with the pulley from the third floor, in the back, were where the molasses and vinegar barrels were hoisted up. Many genial clerks, too numerous to mention by name, have served the public over the counters of this store.
“After Mr. Brockett left the store, he continued on as postmaster of Bouckville, moving the post office into what is now known as the Pierce auto used parts, until his death on January 14, 1934.
“About the same time the Cobblestone store was built, the cobblestone house now occupied by Glen Washburn and the red brick house, occupied by Mrs. Elsie Washburn, were also erected.”
In its last change of hands, early in 1940, Robert Palmiter purchased the property and has remodeled it so far as possible to its original style. He will use it as an antique store. Among other restorations are some of the original doors and windows and the cupola.
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The 1853 wall map of Madison county shows "Woodhull & Forward, Distillers" on the west side of the Chenango Canal at this point. A news item states it was converted to a vinegar factory in 1867.
Photo courtesy of Diane VanSlyke, Town of Madison Historian
Utica Daily Press
Tuesday, September 29, 1891
A Great Blaze At Bouckville
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Mott’s Cider Mill and Other Buildings
Destroyed, Entailing a Loss Estimated
at Between $50,000 and $100,000
BOUCKVILLE, Sept. 18 - [Special] The greatest fire known in the history of this village occurred here this evening, by which the largest industry in the place was wiped out. About 20 minutes before 6, smoke was noticed coming from the varnishing department of Mott’s cider mills. The alarm was at once given and a crowd collected, but as there was no apparatus at hand, the flames spread with alarming rapidity.
The people became almost frantic and hasty appeals were sent to surrounding towns. Oriskany Falls, Hamilton and Morrisville responded, sending apparatus. The flames raged fiercely until nearly 8 o’clock, when they were gotten under partial control. At one time it looked as though the whole village would be burned, and the inhabitants rushed about the streets almost crazed.
At the lower mills, where the conflagration was located, there are several buildings together. The old distillery, now used as the mill, was a stone structure, about 40x150 feet in dimensions and two stories high. This was destroyed, with the engine house, cooper shop, storage cellar, varnishing rooms and smaller buildings. The factories were the largest in the United States, and in the cellars were 100 cells, each holding about 600 barrels of cider or vinegar. All the refining machinery was destroyed together with an immense quantity of barrels about the outside of the buildings.
Further destruction was only prevented by the efficient work of the firemen. About 40 men wee employed. The property was owned by Hon. S.R. and J.A. Mott. They were unable to give any intelligent estimate of their losses this evening. The loss is variously estimated at from $30,000 to $100,000, half the amount being covered by insurance.
Early view of Mott’s cider mill in Bouckville, looking south west across the old Chenango Canal. Buildings here had cobblestone foundations.
Photo courtesy of Diane VanSlyke, Town of Madison Historian
The Whipple Bridge, a patented iron truss bridge designed by Squire Whipple from Troy, NY replaced the original wooden bridges on the Chenango Canal. In 1925, this bridge collapsed into the water with a car on it. Everyone got up and walked away. The accident happened just after a bus passed over it. The Canal Cottage Museum is at the right. Charles Page, Sr wrote up a story about this, from memory which I think I have at the historical society. He was with his family as a child and heard the crash. There were newspaper accounts of it, too. - Pictures and information courtesy of Diane Van Slyke, Madison Town Historian
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